Great Taste Magazine

 Great Taste sponsored HIP network members enjoyed the after-show happy hour at Madison’s in Long Beach. Sampling a variety of appetizers created by Chef Reynaldo Tovar and tasting organic wines from The Organic Cellar was a relaxing end for attendees of the Goldberg & Solovy food Show.

The food show, held at the Long Beach Convention Center, is just a five-minute walk from Madison. Lots of fun tidbits were available for sampling, such as savory mushroom vol au vent stuffed puff pastry. Girard’s Salad Dressings supplied fresh carrot sticks to taste their Bacon/Spinach or Sweet Thai dressing.

For those who believe every month should be Eat Dessert First Month, Sweet Street was a definite must. Their cranberry/pumpkin torte was a slice of Thanksgiving heaven; no waiting required. Equally tempting and rich, the caramel brownie from Cherrie’s Brownies, Inc. was a hit.

Chef Tovar, recently featured on the cover of Great Taste, had stuffed mushrooms, fresh fruit, and brie encroute to nibble. Guests found room somehow to indulge. Brian Cuddy of The Organic Cellar poured Italian wines he chose to match the menu provided to him prior to the evening. 

By Linda Mensinga

By Robert Johnson

August 2010

In Downtown Long Beach on the corner of Pine Avenue and First  Street, just up from Long Beach Harbor, sits what used to be a bank. Built in a more romantic age, this particular building is a Grecian marvel – guarded in front by ionic pillars that give way to a stone and mortar egress.  The bank is now long gone, but please trust that some treasures still remain. Today, the Madison Restaurant keeps watch over the culinary assets and currency that Chef Reynaldo Tovar lends out to interested patrons. The restaurant opened in 1997 and stayed true to the design and architecture befitting the era in which the building was constructed.

For nine years, Chef Tovar has worked at the distinguished establishment. First, Chef Rey was a line cook and then sous chef for a few years under one chef. He was then sous chef under a new executive chef before stepping into that role himself. Now the menu, the aplomb, and the satisfaction of being a part of The Madison are all his. Read more »

 By Todd Lejnieks

August 2010

The concept of Tao is based upon the understanding that the only constant in the Universe is change and that we must understand and be in harmony with this change. This, of course, is a perfect description on how to run a dining room or kitchen successfully.

What follows are some ways to approach what we do in our day-to-day jobs serving food to the masses, and hopefully along the way, find our own little nirvana. Read more »

By Lori Olsen

August 2010

Attending food shows is a great way to sharpen your food and hospitality industry chops. With access to new industry trends, products and strategies, food shows provide helpful tips and demonstrations that can take you and your business to the next level. Guest speakers and speaker forums at the food shows are educational and timely and can help you see your business in a whole new light. Don’t miss out on what’s new in the industry. Check out the upcoming food shows in your area! Read more »

The BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico has been predicted to spread as far as Europe and the arctic – and we are already starting to see the devastating effects of the accident. Along with the detrimental destruction to the environment, the spill will also affect much of the Gulf’s wildlife – which means seafood. So how is the oil spill going to affect the restaurant industry?

Read more »

-Roy Hendrickson is Chef de Cuisine at Zimzala at the Shorebreak Hotel and has been for about 5 months. 8/12/10

- Tim Kast has been named Executive Chef Partner of the soon-to-open Seasons 52 in South Coast Plaza. 8/9/10.

- Jorge Estrada has departed Fleming’s Newport Beach. Rumor has it that he will be replaced with Chris Hutten, currently at The Catch, Anaheim. 8/1/10 Read more »

By: Robert Johnson

July 2010

Culinary artistry can be achieved by delicately balancing contrasts, and chefs spend their careers trying to pair the right combination of sweet and sour, salty and bitter, even crispy and tender. For Chef Joseph Youkhan of the Savannah Chophouse, this philosophy not only applies to cooking but also to life. The Chef is unwittingly a prime example of contrasts. Chef Joseph is a towering figure; at first glance, one might too quickly assume that he is the type that might fold you in half for looking at him the wrong way, but once he begins to speak, an unexpected mildness radiates from his imposing frame.

Chef Youkhan was born in Yonkers, New York but grew up in the Bronx. A self-taught chef, Joseph learned the basics of the culinary industry from his father - a chef and owner of an Italian restaurant in New York. But rather than rely on what he learned in the kitchen, Chef Youkhan spent a great deal of time at bookstores pouring over cookbooks so that he could learn new techniques and refine the ones he had already learned. Around age sixteen, Chef Joseph left the Big Apple for a trip behind the Orange Curtain. Read more »

Its summertime in Orange County and the living is easy. Fine dining or casual, some restaurants really heat up during the summer months - nothing beats enjoying a delicious meal and frosty beverage under the California sun. We asked Great Taste readers what their favorite summer restaurants were, and they were more than happy to share.

“My favorite summer restaurant is the Beachcomber in Crystal Cove.
It’s right on the beach, and is operated out of one of the old cottages that were built in the 1940’s as part of a seaside colony. And if the view wasn’t enough, they have the best burger hands down, that you can get in SoCal. Your mouth will water just thinking about it on the shuttle bus ride down, from the parking lot on PCH. It’s worth the trip.”
-Jimmy Weita, Executive Chef, Disneyland Hotel & Park Banquets, Resort Special Events Read more »

It’s been one month since Panera opened its first “Community Kitchen” concept - customers are welcome to pay what they see fit for their meal according to a suggested price on the menu. The community kitchen concept urges those who can afford to pay their full meal price, or even a little extra, to stay true to the honor system, while allowing those who may not have the means to pay full price to receive a hot meal and pay what they can. This allows restaurants to bring in a wider range of customers - they are able to keep their regulars of middle to upper-class diners while adding on working families or college students whose income is a bit shaky.

Ronald Shaich, Panera’s Chairman, was unsure about the outcome of his experimental, nonprofit location, but was pleasantly surprised to find that people still abide by the honor system - the restaurant took in $100,000 in revenue in its first month. Shaich estimated that about 60 to 70% paid in full, 15% left a bit more, and another 15% paid less, or nothing at all. If this outcome continues, Shaich expects to be able to cover the restaurant’s total costs within months and eventually be able to donate some of the profits to charitable organizations.

The Community Kitchen concept has been adopted by a few other eateries, such as Denise Cerreta’s The One World Salt Lake City Community Kitchen, but Panera is the largest thus far to try it. With plans to open two more nonprofit locations in the next few months, Panera has proved that if customers continue to dine on their honor, nonprofit restaurants could turn huge business.

“The doomsday predictions are exaggerated. We will not run out of wild fish by 2050. Not all fish stocks are over-fished,” said Andrew Gruel. Gruel is manager of Seafood for the Future, part of the conservation effort by Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach.

Recently Great Taste sponsored another delicious HIP tasting event at Wild Fish Seafood Grille in Newport Beach with guest speaker Andrew Gruel discussing the future of seafood. He explained to an interested audience that farmed seafood has been labeled as bad by surveyed consumers who are not well informed. “Many fish are farmed very well in closed containment with good feed conversion ratios in an environmentally sound manner,” Gruel said.

The Aquarium fully supports farmed Atlantic salmon from both closed and open containment systems.

Feed conversion is the amount of feed in pounds it takes to produce a pound of fish.

For example, “Current ratios are 2.4 pounds of small fish to make 1 pound of farmed salmon as opposed to wild where it is 10 pounds of small fish to make 1 pound of salmon,” Gruel explained. Farmed clams, mussels and oysters in contrast need none.  He listed catfish, tilapia, clams, oysters and mussels as other positive examples of farmed fish or aquaculture.   

Gruel continued by noting that about 40% of the wild salmon and white sea bass are ranched. “Eggs are cultured in a hatchery and given feed to gain size and strength. Once large enough, they are released into the ocean to forage for food,” he said.

Debunking myths is not what chefs do, nor do they have time to research which species are endangered and which are not. “The Long Beach Aquarium will provide that information for you and let you decide. We encourage chefs to jump to other species such as cobia or escolar,” Gruel said.  

The aquarium will work with the restaurant on their seafood menu and allow approved restaurants to display their logo on menus. “We try and get restaurants to stay away from fish that are very long lived, slow to reproduce and therefore vulnerable to over-fishing such as orange roughy, Chilean sea bass, shark and bluefin tuna (unless it comes from a certified body),” Gruel said. However, Chilean sea bass is okay from certified stocks.

The aquarium even provides complementary adult aquarium tickets, a $25 value, to any guest that orders a seafood selection. “You could order fish and chips at Parkers’ Lighthouse for $16 and get a free ticket,” he said.

Guests enjoyed a wonderful lunch of a salmon tartar, shrimp salad and almond-crusted halibut with white wine sauce. 

Please see their website for participating restaurants and more information.

http://seafoodforthefuture.org/

The website’s comparison chart is straightforward with green, yellow and red dots assigned to common seafood species. The dots were assigned by groups such as the Blue Ocean Institute, Greenpeace and Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch. Species such as wild caviar, monkfish, Atlantic salmon, grouper and red snapper are red dots across every scientific group listed. On everyone’s green list? Catfish, (US farmed), arctic char, clams, mussels, sardines and sablefish.

The waters get a big murky when it comes to fish such as tuna. Albacore can be either long line or pole/troll (fishing method) and earns all three designations–red, yellow and green–depending on the group that has done the research. Long line was more negative than pole/troll. Bluefin tuna is red across the board and canned tuna gets a few yellows. Bigeye, bluefin(all red) skipjack and three kinds of yellowfin add to the confusion a consumer might feel when either buying tuna to cook at home or ordering in a restaurant. 

By: Robert Johnson 

May/June 2010

It’s been said, “the future is now” and this adage certainly holds true for Chef Gabriel Caliendo of the Lazy Dog Cafe. His future seemed to have been decided at an early age, while growing up in his mother and father’s deli. At the tender young age of seven, he began his culinary training in the back of his family’s deli cracking olives with a Progresso soup can while standing on a pickle bucket in order to reach the counter. Chef Gabe helped his father make seven different kinds of sausage, learned how to make charcuterie and hand-pulled fresh buffalo mozzarella - all before he could drive a car.

Then, when he turned 14 and was eager to set out on his own, Chef Caliendo began working at Round Table Pizza on a work permit. His innate understanding of the intricacies of restaurant business was quickly revealed to his bosses when they realized that not only could he make pizzas better than his older peers, but he was also knowledgeable about food costs - a skill he attributes to his parents teaching him how to be efficient in both the kitchen and the office. Chef Gabe stayed in the pizza industry working at various pizza places until he thought that he might try his hand in the corporate world. Read more »

As we hurtle into the new decade of renewable energy, 3-dimensional movies, and health care reform, there is one topic on the forefront of everyone’s mind: going “green.” Whether you are an eco-soldier who has cultivated a compost pile in their backyard or a simple recycler who makes sure their soda cans don’t go to the landfill, there is no denying that being eco-friendly is becoming a way of life for Americans. And with a projected record high $580 billion in sales for 2010 in the restaurant industry (National Restaurant Association), this is a trend that hospitality professionals cannot afford to ignore. With billions of people going out to eat each year and many of them bringing leftovers home, food packaging is an imperative part of the restaurant industry. Styrofoam, plastic bags and boxes are so prevalent that you could most likely think of at least three that you’ve thrown away in the past week. Read more »

Award-winning Chef Grant MacPherson is set to unveil Rustica, an exciting new restaurant in Fashion Island, next month. Rustica’s cuisine will be inspired from Chef’s international culinary experience, combining authentic regional cooking with uniquely Californian seasonal foods. Busy preparing for the restaurant’s debut on June 1, Chef MacPherson takes some time out to tell Great Taste Magazine about his latest endeavor.

Great Taste: Why did you choose a shopping district and Fashion Island in particular?
Chef MacPherson: I visited sunny, Southern California many times and thought it would be a good opportunity to be part of the Irvine collection at Fashion Island.

GT: What are some of your favorite/signature dishes on the menu? Read more »

We’ve all had bad nights in the industry. The kind of night where everything goes wrong and there seems to be no end in sight to the disaster you find yourself in. Your mind races; you can feel the sweat beads begin to form on your forehead. But what happens when your bad night affects others? Even worse, hungry others who have made reservations!
My Worst Night Ever features horror stories straight from hospitality industry professionals who recount for us the worst night of their career - a night that will forever be embedded in their minds. As you will see, many factors can contribute to a borderline meltdown. However, even the worst of nights can transform into great learning experiences and even create a tighter bond among staff and associates.

Joe Manzella, Proprietor, TAPS Fish House & Brewery and The Catch
We had just completed being “ground zero” for the 2002 Angels’ playoffs and magical World Series run. The Catch had successfully executed serving thousands of guests, celebrities, media and players in what was nothing short of a miracle for a restaurant that had been open less than two months. So when we looked at the event calendar and saw that the Rolling Stones were playing at Angel Stadium, why worry? We were going to snooze our way through that three hour rush, because we had just been on a three week tear Read more »

The trade turned out to sample a diverse selection of California Zinfandels. Zinfandel, unlike most other varieties, does not have its roots in Europe. It began its own tradition in California back in the 1840s. Many of the growers and winemakers who have elevated Zinfandel to world class were represented at the Zinfandel Grand Tasting 2010 recently at the Island Hotel’s Palm Garden in Newport Beach.

Presented by Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) and sponsored by Great Taste Magazine, wineries such as Cakebread Cellars, Dancing Bulls Wines and Alexander Valley Vineyards poured their wines. Regions included Paso Robles, Lodi County, Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino each with their own personality.

The complementary trade tasting drew dozens of sommeliers, owners, beverage directors and chefs. For more information visit zinfandel.org.

Check out the pictures from the event

By Robert Johnson
March/April 2010

Life is strange. Very few of us actually end up where we plan to go. Rather than battle against the current of life’s ocean, we succumb to its effluence and trust that we will be provided for. Rather than be taken away by the current, Dave Dennis of the Matador Cantina in Fullerton, CA, was submerged well below it exploring the reefs. Dave started out as a scuba instructor and then later plunged himself into a life as an executive chef.

A native of La Habra Chef Dennis originally attended a commercial scuba diving program in Santa Barbara. While in school, he worked as a cook in order to earn money. So he was already used to being in the kitchen. He hoped to become a dive master on a charter boat, but there were not any of those positions available. Read more »

International Cuisine

By Kelly O’Quinn

If there was one literal word to describe Chef Dave Dennis, it would be cosmopolitan. Having traveled to seven different countries as a scuba instructor/chef on various charter boats and yachts, Chef Dennis has learned the use of multiple unique cooking methods and recipes from around the world which he incorporates into his distinct Mexican Fusion cuisine at The Matador Cantina in Downtown Fullerton. When we asked him which ethnic cuisine he found most interesting, his list seemed never-ending! With such an expansive knowledge of world-wide cuisine, Chef Dennis is the go-to man for an unrivaled culinary experience. Read more »

HIP Tasting
Haven Gastropub
Linda Mensinga - Special Report

Haven Gastropub in Orange was hopping at the recent HIP Tasting with about 65 guests. Chefs, GMs, F&B Managers and purveyors mingled over Perini wine and fabulous food provided by Chef Greg Daniels. Cabernet Crusted Escolar, Roasted Neck of Lamb and Brioche Bread Pudding with Salted Caramel Ice Cream were the highlights of the afternoon’s tasting.

Open just 7 months, the Gastropub has garnered great reviews and lots of attention including Best New Restaurant of 2009 by the Orange County Register and OC Weekly. Large picture windows in Old Orange just off the Circle, comfortable tables and friendly service create “home away from home…your own Haven.”

Special guest Joe Scognamillo of DiCarlo Seafood demo’d a selection of delectable oysters including French Kiss, Fanny Bay, Kumamoto and Marin Miyagi. The Organic Cellars poured Perinni Mila Bio Rosso to complement the Cabernet Crusted Escolar. Casa Al Vento Gaiole accompanied the Haven Sliders.

Event sponsored by FreshPoint Produce, Long Beach Seafood, White Apron Meats and Great Taste Magazine.

Check out the great pics

By Erin DeWitt
March/April 2010

So much must be done before a restaurant gets ready to open for the night: prep the food, set the tables, make sure the bar is plenty stocked. Prior to starting a long night of busy service, some restaurants gather together for a “family meal.” This gives employees a chance to sit down and break bread with their fellow co-workers. The meals can be anything and everything, Read more »

By Erin DeWitt
March/April 2010

The notion of house wines, which used to be that they were somewhat inferior, has drastically changed in recent years. A unique addition to your wine list, private label wines give your customers the opportunity to experience complex new flavors along with a sense of exclusivity. Interestingly, the experience of purchasing private labels or creating your own can be as diverse as the wines themselves - where the grapes come from, who made the wine and so on. House wines are holding their own on the wine list for a variety of factors, such as the new outlook on smaller vineyards and lesser-known winemakers.

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse has been working with private labels for some time. “We make our own wine in partnership with a different winery each year under the Forty-Six Diamonds label.” Says Marian Jansen op de Haar, Fleming’s Director of Wine. “Our first year partnership was with Flora Springs on a meritage blend (Cab-Merlot-Cab Franc etc.), the second year we did it with Georges Duboeuf -this was a Pouilly-Fuissé (chardonnay) from the Macon region in France.  This year we have a Pinot Noir from Carneros that we made with Folio which is Michael and Rob Mondavi Jr.’s new company (we made it with Rob and their winemakers).” Read more »

By Linda Mensinga

Spanish cuisine icon, Chef José Andres, with the help of Chef Jorge Chicas, has created a true bazaar of flavor, experience and luxurious fun at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills.

“José’s style is a little different from what people expect,” said Chef de Cuisine Jorge Chicas about the food at Bazaar. “It’s not a protein, starch and veg. It might be seared snapper with Vera Cruz sauce and just a few tortilla chips. We have to teach people how to eat. But we’ve made the move and people are getting it.”

Chef Jorge collaborates with Chef José Andres to create traditional and modern tapas for the Bazaar by José Andres at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills with the help of Marcel Vigneron from Top Chef Season 3, as sous chef. Small portions mean more chances to try more of his amazing, captivating dishes. One dish on Bazaar’s menu, Ottoman Carrot Fritters, has its origins in Turkey (see photo/recipe). Chef José is noted for bringing Spanish food to Washington, DC and now owns seven restaurants in the capitol, including Zaytinya, where Chef Jorge started working for him. Chef Jorge moved with his family from El Salvador to Washington, DC when he was 13. He worked in various kitchens in the area and was executive chef/partner in Capital Restaurant Concepts before joining José Andres.

The hotel itself is a playful mix of styles and decoration. Near the light-filled lobby is a dark retail area with glass-enclosed items for sale such as a model of the Titanic, signature china, and T-shirts.  Nearby is the patisserie with exquisite sweets and desserts. The overall effect of the lobby/retail area is a bit overwhelming and a somewhat dark version of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

The restaurant is divided into Blanca (contemporary) and Rojo (traditional). Blanca has white cushy chairs and banquets while Rojo diners sit on black benches and tables with chalkboard-like reproductions of Picasso drawings. Chef Jorge explained that all the tapas are available in both restaurants.

 “I worked with José in Washington and Las Vegas doing culinary but also F&B work preparing a budget for small wares and purchasing china and other kitchen utensils,” said Chef Jorge. He did menu costing and worked with Phillipe Stark on the SLS in Los Angeles. For a while he traveled back and forth, but has now settled in the area with his wife and four children.

“José visits once a month and stays three or four days to see how things are going,” said Jorge. “The menu may get changed. When he comes he may have a vision or some new ingredient from somewhere.” The chef de cuisine and his cooks then spend some time working out some dishes that Chef José may or may not approve on his next visit.

“We spent time in Mexico and Italy. You can pick up new ideas from everywhere,” Jorge said. José has taken him on trips to Lebanon and Turkey, as well as Spain, of course. “You learn over time what goes with what and develop a good palate.”

Jorge works a six-day week with long hours and clearly enjoys the challenge of working at a top-notch luxury property. “The kids know the routine, when an opening happens they don’t see me as much,” he said. He has to be at work to make sure everything runs smoothly and consistently.

In the original concept, SLS stood for Starwood Luxury Services, but as the hotel has evolved SLS embodies many meanings describing the hotel and therefore does not stand for anything specific. For example: “something lovely started,” “small luxurious sweets” or “soothing lonely starlets”. “Sip liquids slowly” is found on coffee cups and “sparing land’s supplies” on hotel environmental policies. “Somebody loves slogans,” wrote Fred A. Bernstein in his New York Times review Check In/Check Out.

Menu

By Linda Mensinga

The former Top Chef competitor Chris Jacobsen now runs the kitchen for The Yard, a popular gastro-pub in Santa Monica, where he makes bar food that is several notches above the usual sliders and nachos. “It opened a million doors,” says Chef CJ about his appearance on Top Chef Season 3, “I get noticed every day.” Currently, Chef CJ is enjoying life as a regular chef: behind the burners every night, free from judges and competitors. With a menu that contains a changing array of interesting choices - braised crispy beef cheek with celery root corn puree, spicy chili crusted shrimp, and a chocolate porter cake with dark chocolate pudding - all in addition to traditional bar favorites - sliders, fish tacos, and pulled pork sandwiches - Chef CJ displays his limitless creativity in the kitchen. Read more »

February 2010 Issue

By Erin DeWitt

We can’t believe it’s 2010. As we enter this new decade, one thing is apparent: Times are definitely changing. New trends are popping up all over the place – everything from adventurous new menu items to adventurous new restaurants– businesses today are really striving for the unique and modern. Though the classic foundation of a successful restaurant will always remain –true hospitality, good food, drink and atmosphere – the way to keep old ideas fresh is to put a spin on them. Welcome to the future of dining!

GASTROPUBS

These English-inspired pubs are popping up all over the county. Despite the rather unappealing name (it’s a combination of “gastronomy” and “pub”), Read more »

By Robert Johnson
January/February 2010

Sometimes professionals can get too caught up in image and title. In doing so, they may lose focus on their craft and the end product may suffer as a result. One professional who can not only teach lessons on focus and passion, but can also take you to school on what it takes to become a great cook is James Chavez.

James is the Executive Chef at Agio Ristorante at the DoubleTree Hotel in Anaheim, and he is dedicated to being dedicated. Chef Chavez grew up in La Puente, CA with very little. Read more »